Saturday, June 19, 2021

A Las Vegas obituary

I went to see the Las Vegas Aviators on June 14. That's a minor league baseball team, which plays in a fancy new ballpark near Red Rock Casino in Summerlin. The visiting Reno Aces defeated the Aviators 21-16 that night. Yes, it was a baseball game. 

I don't know what major media organizations do nowadays, but there was a time when they wrote early obituaries. 

Before the internet and TMZ made our world a better place, your major news sources had obituaries ready to go, in case word broke that a major celebrity or public figure died with little advance warning. Some form of that practice probably remains in place. When former president Jimmy Carter dies, you'll see information pouring out in rapid succession, Perhaps some of that will be the result of news aggregation, but I suspect there will be a few base pieces that were put together long ago in anticipation of the day.

What does this have to do with Vegas? 

It's too early to say my Vegas career is dead, but I really had to wonder when I left town this time. 

I just spent a week in Vegas. I had a good time, and enjoyed a lot of the things I did. 

At the same time, the things I enjoyed didn't seem to warm my heart quite the same way. 

I have been traveling to Vegas for 24 years. A lot changes during any 24-year period. And like all those who bemoan how Vegas was better when the mob ran the casinos, I'm starting to think Vegas was more enjoyable for me back in my glory days, too. I just can't thank the mob for that. 

I stayed on the strip almost every time I visited Vegas during those early years. I was young, and didn't have a ton of money, but that didn't seem to prevent me from enjoying the Vegas strip. I could play all the $5 blackjack I wanted, and there were plenty of cheap places to eat and drink. I was far less discerning back then, and had an iron gut, so that helped the cause. 

For the past 10-12 years I have been staying either downtown or off the strip. The Orleans has been a frequent destination when staying off-strip. There was no single reason I gravitated away from the strip, but there were a few contributing factors. 

I don't think my off-strip exploration had anything to do with higher minimums on the strip for table games. That became a factor in cementing my departure, but there were still $5 games to be had circa 2009, when I started making my move off the strip, as I recall. 

I think my disenchantment with the strip was driven primarily by two things: Low rollers were finding fewer options on the strip and the casinos became dull. 

At the end of the day, it doesn't matter if you're playing blackjack in Egypt, New York, Paris or under a circus tent, it's the game that matters. But I, like many, found the less colorful casino decor and abandoned themes to be less entertaining than their predecessors. 

Take away low roller gambling, make the casinos less fascinating and keep increasing prices of everything else in and around your casino... suddenly downtown Las Vegas looks far more appealing. 

Downtown became my savior, despite its lack of entertainment alternatives. There was no observation tower, fake volcano or sky parade to entertain the masses, but downtown casinos still valued those folks who don't need to burn through a C-note in 10 minutes to feel as if they're entertained. 

The days of the cheap table games, and cheap yard drinks, at Slots-A-Fun are long gone. (As are those 99-cent half-pound hot dogs I stopped eating in 2000.) And the $5 Spanish 21 tables up and down the strip are a dim memory. But I found a lot of replacements for those days, and I found them everywhere but on the strip. And that was fine. 

Two years ago my alternate-universe Vegas, the one that contrasted greatly from 1997 Vegas, was still a lot of fun. Vegas 2019 is gone, too, and what I'm left with has me wondering if there's a lot of Vegas in my future. 

I blame some of it on the pandemic. The pandemic forced casinos to raise their table game minimums, due to the limited capacity at each table under social distancing guidelines. Now that tables are full, the minimums are not going down. There's no shortage of players willing to drop their cash at a $15 minimum blackjack table, so why would a casino offer $5 tables? 

Sure, there are still 25-cent video poker machines and machines offering nickel-based wagering, but for those who like the table games, you'd better be happy with stadium gaming or a fully computerized experience. Some of that was coming, regardless of the table minimums. Automation and technology have long reduced labor costs for casinos, and such corners will be cut as often as possible. 

So is it simply the fact I can't spend an evening playing $5 blackjack at The Orleans that has me soured on Vegas? No. 

I never found that an evening spent listening to free cover bands on Fremont Street, elbow to elbow with drunk strangers, was an important part of my life. I'll listen to a little music, sure, but dancing around like I'm having the greatest night of my life as Zowie Bowie pretends to rap "O.P.P." is beyond preposterous. And the light show up above Fremont Street is pretty impressive, but after a couple of trips downtown, it's not all that fascinating.

And my disinterest in downtown is not just at night. On a recent Sunday afternoon they had a "dancing DJ" or whatever it is they're selling, cranking out the tunes for those walking by. I didn't have to shout in order for my friend to hear me, but I didn't need a dance party at that time of day, either. 

Couple that with the buskers and homeless clogging up Fremont street, between kiosks selling crap I want no part of, and Fremont Street is a big disappointment to me. And nothing pisses me off more than the "circle jerks" whose dance crew, bucket drumming or audience-participation spectacle creates a choke point on Fremont. Yeah, it's the pedestrians that create the circle, not the performers, but their spectacles aren't cut out for the performance circles that were intended for showgirls, creepy KISS dudes and Star Wars rejects.

Fremont Street has lost me, too. 

I can find plenty of favorite places and activities to visit in Vegas that still make it a great city to visit. And it's still a low-cost city, if you want it to be. But after nearly 25 years, I have walked away from Vegas wondering why I'll be in a hurry to go back. 

So I'm not saying I'm done with Vegas. But it really feels like my Vegas days are numbered. And I'm not interested in going back right now. That tells me a lot. 

Some people really don't like the Pinball Hall of Fame's new home on the Las Vegas Strip, I learned on June 18. 


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